If you often remove and reattach your guitar neck for adjustments, refitting, or transport, switching from traditional wood screws to machine screws with threaded inserts is a significant upgrade. Here’s why:
Why Choose Machine Screws Over Wood Screws?
Better durability
Machine screws, combined with metal inserts, are significantly stronger than traditional wood screws. They provide a much more secure bond between the neck and body.
Ideal for frequent neck removal
Wood screws can wear out the neck heel threads over time if removed and reinstalled frequently. Machine screws, however, screw into metal threads inside the wood, making them ideal for those who adjust setups or swap necks regularly
Improved alignment and torque
Machine screws can be tightened more firmly and evenly. This makes the neck a more stable neck joint with potentially better sustain and resonance.
What Did I Use For The Upgrade?
Stainless Steel Threaded Inserts
E-Z Lok Threaded Stainless Steel Inserts (8-32)
Stainless Steel Thread Insert
Stainless Steel Machine Screws
316 Stainless Steel Machine Screw (From Amazon)
316 stainless steel machine screws, size 10-32 x 1-1/2”
The Marine-grade 316 stainless steel machine screws, size 10-32 x 1-1/2”, I found this length works perfectly on a standard Strat neck pocket.
It is an oval head (retro-style Phil head), looks exactly the same as normal wooden screws, but with extra strong, corrosion-resistant, and much less prone to stripping compared to standard screws. It is pretty cheap on Amazon.
Drill Bit
I used the drill bit for Inserts: 17/64” came with the E-Z Lok package; however, I ended up using a 7.5mm drill bit, and we can talk about it later.
Installation Process
1. Preparation
I started by enlarging the existing screw holes in the neck using a 17/64” drill bit that came with the E-Z Lok kit. Tip: Make sure your drill bit is perfectly perpendicular to the neck heel to avoid misalignment. I used a drill press with a vice to hold the neck and wrapped the neck in leather to protect the finish.
To align everything, I placed a small level across the neck pocket and lined it up with the drill bit. Once drilled, I used a countersink bit to slightly bevel the hole so the threaded insert would sit flush or just below the surface of the neck heel.
2. Install the Inserts
This part didn’t go as smoothly as I expected. When I tried installing the inserts with the included drive tool, I noticed some chipping in the maple. I suspect this is because:
- Roasted maple is more brittle than standard maple
- Maple, in general, is a very hard wood and doesn’t compress like softer woods
To fix this, I ended up enlarging the hole slightly to 7.5mm. That gave the insert enough clearance to go in smoothly without cracking the wood.
There was a bit of minor chipping in the wood, but it was repaired with wood glue, and everything is holding up well overall.
Oncell inserts were in, the neck looked clean and professional. However, due to the tight tolerances of machine screws and inserts, you must align the body and neck holes precisely. If the holes are slightly off, the screws may not seat properly.
- You can slightly enlarge the body holes if needed. The body isn’t meant to thread the screws, and the neck plate will cover the holes anyway.
- Plug the holes with dowels, redrill, and start fresh. This is not what we want :(
Precision matters much more. Take your time drilling
Final Thoughts
This upgrade isn’t for everyone. It takes patience, precision, and the right tools. But the result is a solid, long-lasting neck joint that won’t wear out.
I chose marine grade 316 stainless steel screws for extra strength and corrosion resistance. They are tough to strip and perfect if you adjust your neck often.
If you want a reliable setup that can handle years of use and travel, machine screws and threaded inserts are well worth the effort.
